Basketmakers’ fight to not be regulated like cosmetologists is moving forward

As natural hair braiding grew in popularity, so did entrepreneurs’ frustration with Pennsylvania’s regulatory oversight.

Since 2003, braiders have been opposing the State Board of Cosmetology’s view that braiders are cosmetologists and, as such, need hours of formal training and a license to practice to protect public safety. Oplotniki claimed that they do not use dyes or other chemical products that could harm customers, so they should be able to carry out their activities without state involvement.

Their efforts moved closer to reality when state Rep. Donna Bullock’s bill to exempt the hair braiding industry from all regulatory oversight passed the House of Representatives unanimously in March and moved to the Senate.

While the bill may be rejected by the Senate Consumer Protection and Professional Licensing Committee, Bullock said she is optimistic it will pass the Republican-controlled chamber because it is generally a pro-business measure.

“When Donna Bullock’s bill passed the house, we told the weavers about it, and there was a lot of joy,” said Eric Edi, chief operating officer of the Coalition of African and Caribbean Communities in Philadelphia (AFRICOM).

Edi estimates that there are at least 300 basket makers in Philadelphia, although he acknowledges that AFRICOM’s number does not include part-time and home-based basket makers.

Deregulation of splicing

Braiding is a skill that provides a source of income for many – mainly women – entrepreneurs. Most, however, operate without a license – risking fines and salon closures, said Nadia Hewka, senior attorney at Community Legal Services.

If Bullock’s bill is signed into law, Hewka said, “It’s going to be a huge burden off their shoulders.”

” READ MORE: A New Jersey bill would require beauty schools to teach textured hair and promote inclusion, sponsors say

Originally, the state’s cosmetology law required 1,250 hours of instruction, at a cost of thousands of dollars, to master a material that had little to do with natural hair braiding. In 2006, the state responded to the initial outcry from braiders by establishing an alternative permit requirement that required only 300 hours of hair braiding instruction.

“It was difficult to comply with the (new) law,” Hewka said, explaining that several cosmetology programs in the state offered a 300-hour braiding program and that instruction was only in English because many basket makers were West African immigrants who they speak English poorly. skills.

“Diversity creates opportunities for bills.”

Diversity moves the calculus

State Senator Anthony Hardy Williams introduced a bill in 2018 to eliminate the 300-hour cosmetology school requirement.

“This costly regulation does not benefit small business owners, hair braiding professionals or their customers,” Williams said at the time.

But the bill did not become law.

Bullock said that about 20 years ago, when braiders first united under AFRICOM, the state legislature had no idea about natural hair or the skills needed to braid hair. Today, several representatives – both men and women – have natural hairstyles, including House Speaker Joanna E. McClinton.

“We are a more diverse Legislature. “Diversity creates opportunity for bills,” said Bullock, who sponsored the legislation with state Rep. Regina Young, who represents parts of Delaware and Philadelphia counties.

There are reasons why basket makers are optimistic. Currently, 33 states have deregulated hair braiding.

” READ MORE: In the long battle to deregulate natural hair braiding, salon owner Olney is winning

Last year, a Commonwealth Court panel found that the state’s licensing requirements violated the constitutional right of Philadelphia braider Maimouna Thiam to make a living based on unreasonable requirements.

Edi said at the time that the ruling, which applied solely to Thiam’s cases, signaled to other hair braiders that “hope is on the way. This is a case law that will inform other potential cases.”

Hair braiding is not just a modern hairstyle, but an ancient art form with a long and rich cultural history, Bullock said.

“Natural hair braiding has been common in the African American community for centuries,” Bullock said. “The techniques are passed down from generation to generation, are learned from early childhood, and require no formal training.”