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What is causing unrest in the clothing sector?

TBS Report

September 10, 2024, 7:50 AM

Last Modified: September 10, 2024, 08:52

Nazma Akter (left), president of Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation and Shams Mahmud (right), managing director of Shasha Denims and former president of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

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Nazma Akter (left), president of Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation and Shams Mahmud (right), managing director of Shasha Denims and former president of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

Nazma Akter (left), president of Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation and Shams Mahmud (right), managing director of Shasha Denims and former president of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

Protests by RMG workers began on August 29. Their demands to garment factory owners reportedly include recruiting equal numbers of men and women, increasing wages and other benefits, and reducing the workload.

Since the beginning of the protests, and also in the post-Hasina period, there has been much speculation about the reasons or “initiators” of these protests.

After almost two weeks of unrest and disruptions in RMG centres (like Ashulia and Gazipur), we spoke to the RMG owner and a union activist to understand the ground realities and find ways for an amicable resolution.

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Shams Mahmud, Managing Director of Shasha Denims Ltd and former Chairman of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

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Shams Mahmud, Managing Director of Shasha Denims Ltd and former Chairman of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

Shams Mahmud, Managing Director of Shasha Denims Ltd and former Chairman of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

“The problems will not be limited to RMG, they will have a devastating effect”

Shams Mahmud

Managing Director Shasha Denims and former President of DCCI

It is true that the recent unrest by RMG workers in Ashulia is linked to outside groups fighting for supremacy, particularly in the scrap metal industry. Another problem is the vacuum created by the lack of sufficient police personnel to contain the situation.

The proximity of factories in Ashulia has also contributed to the spread of unrest to the area. For example, garment factories in Gazipur are doing well. This unrest is limited to Ashulia. If it was a real protest, it would have spread to the entire country.

But the employees themselves are very sincere and want to work. It is primarily outsiders who lead the unrest.

There are bigger implications of this for the RMG sector. Winter is the peak season for the industry and orders for it are placed around this time of the year. These orders may be redirected to other countries due to unrest. This will ultimately affect macroeconomic stability in the future.

Moreover, we cannot discuss other major challenges like energy security because we are all engaged in that discussion now. Our backward linkages are already suffering. If we are now held back by energy insecurity, it will affect the financial sector as well. The problems will not be limited to RMG alone, they will have a ripple effect on the entire economy.

TBS head Abrar Aowsaf spoke by phone with Shams Mahmud.


Nazma Akhter. Sketch: TBS

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Nazma Akhter. Sketch: TBS

Nazma Akhter. Sketch: TBS

“We stand with the workers, but there is a way and manner to make ourselves heard”

Nazma Akter

President of the Federation of Sramik Sommilito Garments

The RMG sector is a well-established place where over four million workers work directly and millions more indirectly. During the 15-year Awami League regime, everyone was Awami League – for example, ministers, MPs, mayors, senior officials, administrators, unionists. This means that we had to “support” them (AL party representatives or members), whether by compulsion or otherwise – for the sake of work and operations.

Now after so many years, even when, let’s say, I’ve escaped, are my party people still right? They didn’t escape, and neither did the politicians.

So when we talk about “external” instigators or “outsiders” involved in the recent garment riots, we can suspect that politicians from this group are involved.

Interestingly, female garment factory workers were not present during these riots.

I want to make something clear – we support the garment workers and their demands, but there is a way and manner to make yourself heard. Vandalism and violence are unacceptable. It is important to refrain from illogical behavior.

Forced resignations are also a cause for concern. From executive directors to managers (in RMG) they are being forced to leave the factory. Let me give you an example: one day a production manager was forced to resign – because of his “party affiliation”.

Now we have to understand that during the Awami League regime — everyone had to be a supporter, that’s just how it was. So we can’t ‘demand’ these people to resign — and then do it by force. When this Prime Minister resigns, who will do his share of work; he has a role to play in the operations of the factory. Is there a deputy? That will disrupt the operations.

The impact is serious — and we’ve seen it before. If this (the way the protests and riots have been going) were to continue, brands (customers) would (eventually) take their orders elsewhere. And by that I mean other destinations like Pakistan, Vietnam, etc. Factories are going to close. So if we don’t protect factories, if they close, what happens to those jobs? Those same people (protesters) are going to come and beg for jobs. And most of them are women. There’s no alternative.

Moreover, it is not that the factory owners are coming together to resolve the matter peacefully. For example, on September 8th in the evening, some of them sat down together and announced that they would declare a general holiday for their factories in Ashulia. But in reality, on September 9th, in some factories, workers were dismissed, some factories remained closed, while others remained open.

This creates confusion and more room for unrest. Another example is – some factory owners said that salaries will be paid today (September 9), now I hear the factory is saying sorry but not today, so the workers surrounded that factory in protest.

This is not right. This will not solve the problem, rather it will provoke more clashes. Listen to the workers in an organized way. Here also the real participation of trade unions is necessary. Here they must remember the issues of wages, welfare of workers. The previous government promised to introduce a rationing system for workers, which is ongoing. In this way, workers are always subjected to false obligations. The caretaker government should also pay attention to this.

Therefore, I request the factory owners, the caretaker government and the RMG workers to sit down and talk, have an open dialogue, discuss these demands and find a solution together.

TBS’s Nusmila Lohani spoke to Nazma Akter over the phone.