How to Go Island Hopping in Mokpo, South Korea

Most visitors to South Korea land on one of two islands: Yeongjeongdo, home to the giant Incheon International Airport, or Jeju, the country’s largest, which is a major South Sea attraction for its volcanoes and pristine beaches. They are often unaware that the peninsula is surrounded by more than 3,000 other islands – some inhabited, some just rocky cliffs that come and go with the tides. The greatest concentration is around the southwestern city of Mokpo, which, thanks to increased government funding in recent decades, has been transformed from little more than a provincial backwater into a destination with its own salty charm.

You can admire the islands near Mokpo without leaving the mainland. There are viewpoints around Yudalsan, a small mountain located a short walk from the train station. This is also the starting point for Mokpo. Marine cable carwhich stretches two miles across the water to the small island of Gohado. Here, visit the Gohado Observatory for some of the best views. Back in Mokpo, consider visiting National Maritime Heritage Research Museumtoo much. The main focus is on the local seas, but its main attractions are the relics found on two shipwrecks that sank here in the 11th and 14th centuries, including willow-green bowls.

The islands closest to Mokpo are some of the most pristine in the area. The best location is little Oedaldo, an hour’s ferry ride from town, where you’ll find the sandy Oedaldo Beach and Oedaldo Hanok Village. There are so few visitors to this island that the few businesses operating here—simple guesthouses as well as the odd restaurant and shop—are usually understaffed. Phone numbers will be posted in windows, although the owners won’t necessarily be anywhere nearby. It’s a world away from the convenience of Seoul, or indeed any Korean city, and could be a refreshing change.

Further west is the archipelago of Sinan County, which has 111 inhabited islands, some of which are protected as part of Dadohaesang National Park, and almost all of which can be reached by ferry or road from Mokpo. Life in these parts flows smoothly; Fishing is still the main source of income, a fact made clear every night by the lights of distant squid boats shining like fallen stars on the horizon.

In recent years, many of Sinan’s islands have been connected to the mainland’s road network through a series of bridges. One area has become particularly popular: Purple Island, which, despite its name, is actually made up of two islets – Banwoldo and Bakjido – connected by footbridges to the larger Anjwado, which can be reached by bus from Mokpo in about three hours. The bridges are purple, as is almost everything you’ll see here: rooftops, cafes like the Purple Island Cafe, and even flowers.

However, the most beloved islands are the most remote. Situated more than 60 miles west of the mainland and nearly two hours by ferry, Heuksando is its own miniature archipelago. Its wooded islands provide fantastic hiking, but most visitors travel the coastline on boat excursions from Yeri, the main port. Hyoksando is also famous for its fermented stingray, hongeo – although if you’re not used to its taste, you’ll likely enjoy the unfermented variety served as sashimi. Another 15 miles to the west is Hong Do (“Red Island”), named for the pigmentation of its rocks. It rises sharply to nearly 1,300 feet, and its main village sits on a saddle-shaped hill.

In both Heuksando and Hongdo, mainland South Korea feels distant in many ways. Once the last ferry leaves, you stay overnight, and sometimes longer if bad weather forces the ferry service to be cancelled. But among these emerald islands and their ocean peaks there are much worse places.